What Are You Getting for the Fees You Are Paying?
admin • November 19, 2019
As you invest, are you receiving the service and resources you deserve?
How much do you pay for wealth management? About $1,000 a month? More than that? If your account is $1 million or larger, that may be the case.
Typically, wealth management firms provide their services for an annual fee approximating 1% of the assets in an investor’s account. Through the years, this 1% yearly fee has become something of an industry standard.1
What are you getting for that 1% fee? You should be getting more than just basic investment advice.
A financial professional with a fee-based business should be able to provide you with insight into retirement planning, tax and estate planning, risk management, and college planning. He or she should provide more than just a second opinion on your investment choices.
If you feel you deserve more service and resources from a wealth manager than what you now receive, consider hiring a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional. A CFP® professional possesses the education, experience, and perspective to offer a truly holistic overview of your financial situation and the possible paths toward your financial goals. The phrase “comprehensive financial planning” truly sums it up.
When a financial professional gives you truly comprehensive guidance, that 1% fee may be worth every penny. A 1% annual advisory fee is a tiny price to pay if the insight gained keeps you from making an error that could cost you much more. (It should be mentioned that some CFP® professionals are willing to negotiate their fees. Some determine their annual advisory fees based on a sliding scale.)
A CFP® professional who provides financial planning services must also abide by a fiduciary standard. What does that mean? It means that when that person offers financial advice, he or she must act solely in a client’s best interest.2
When it comes to wealth management, you should avoid buying on price. This could prove to be a major error.
Some investors think even a 1% annual fee is too much to pay, probably because they have been receiving so little in return for it. They decide to manage their wealth themselves, or they opt for a “robo-advisor” (an automated, algorithm-based online wealth management service, with little or no human touch included). Both of these alternatives have drawbacks.
Do-it-yourself wealth management can potentially undermine your wealth-building effort. Think about the responsibility and time and acumen it demands. Do you have the knowledge and education that a CFP® professional does? Do you think you can regularly outperform the benchmarks, or for that matter Wall Street money managers?
Many people think they can, and they may in the short term, but at considerable risk. Do-it-yourself wealth management tends to open the door to a day trading mentality, in which investors chronically buy high and sell low and underperform the markets. The do-it-yourselfers also tend to “chase the return” to their detriment. Tax and risk management may get short shrift. A great return may not look all that great after taxes.
In life, business, and wealth management, there really is no substitute for personal interaction. That lesson is being learned by investors who rely on robo-advisors.
A robo-advisor deploys computer algorithms to make investment and asset allocation decisions for you. It does not know you. It has no understanding of what you and your family want out of life, or what you want from retirement. It will not sit down with you to create a retirement plan or a risk management strategy. It does not have to uphold a fiduciary standard that places your best interest first.
Yes, it may charge you a lower annual fee than a real live wealth manager, but that discount may be offset, because it may direct your assets into investments that come with relatively high management fees and charges of their own. A robo-advisor is ultimately making decisions on behalf of your investor profile, not you; that decision-making comes with a degree of genericism.
In paying that 1% fee for wealth management, make sure you get what you deserve. You should receive comprehensive financial planning for that expense. A CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional can provide that to you.
Citations & Disclosures
This material was prepared by MarketingPro, Inc., and does not necessarily represent the views of the presenting party, nor their affiliates. This information has been derived from sources believed to be accurate. Please note – investing involves risk, and past performance is no guarantee of future results. The publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting or other professional services. If assistance is needed, the reader is advised to engage the services of a competent professional. This information should not be construed as investment, tax or legal advice and may not be relied on for the purpose of avoiding any Federal tax penalty. This is neither a solicitation nor recommendation to purchase or sell any investment or insurance product or service, and should not be relied upon as such. All indices are unmanaged and are not illustrative of any particular investment. Securities and advisory services offered through Centaurus Financial, Inc. Member FINRA & SIPC, Registered Broker Dealer and a Registered Investment Advisor. Centaurus Financial Inc. and Five Pine Wealth Management are not affiliated. This is not an offer to sell securities, which may be done only after proper delivery of a prospectus and client suitability has been reviewed and determined. Information relating to securities is intended for use by individuals residing in (OR, OH, ID, CA, WA, MT, UT, NY). Centaurus Financial Inc. does not provide tax or legal advice. Citations. 1 – advisoryhq.com/articles/financial-advisor-fees-wealth-managers-planners-and-fee-only-advisors/ [4/17/16] 2 – cfp.net/public-policy/public-policy-issues/fiduciary-standard [4/19/16]
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Key Takeaways High earners maxing out 401(k)s at $24,500 are only saving about 8% of a $300,000 income in their primary retirement account. The mega backdoor Roth strategy can increase total 401(k) contributions to $72,000 annually with tax-free growth. A comprehensive approach can create nearly $3 million in additional retirement wealth over 20 years. It's 2026. You're checking all the boxes. You're earning upwards of $300,000 annually, and you're maxing out your 401(k) every year. You've reached the $24,500 contribution limit and feel confident about securing your financial future. Then you realize $24,500 represents less than 8% of your income. Over 20 years, this gap adds up to millions in lost opportunity. Thankfully, you're not stuck with the basic 401(k) playbook. There are sophisticated strategies beyond your contribution limit. 5 Strategic Moves for High Earners with Maxed-Out 401(k)s Here are five sophisticated strategies that can help you build wealth beyond your basic 401(k) contributions. All projections assume a 7% average annual return and are estimates for illustrative purposes. 1. Mega Backdoor Roth Contributions If your employer's 401(k) plan allows after-tax contributions, this could be your biggest opportunity. With employee contributions, employer match, and after-tax contributions, the combined 401(k) limit for 2026 is $72,000 ($80,000 if you're 50 or older). The mega backdoor Roth works because you immediately convert those after-tax contributions into a Roth account, where they grow tax-free forever. The catch: Not all employers offer this option. You need a plan that permits after-tax contributions and in-service Roth conversions. The impact: The available space for after-tax contributions depends on your employer match. With a typical employer match of 3-6% (roughly $10,000-$21,000 on a $350,000 salary), you could contribute approximately $26,500-$37,000 annually. At 7% average returns over 20 years, this creates approximately $1.1-$1.5 million in additional tax-free retirement savings. 2. Donor-Advised Funds for Charitable Giving If you're charitably inclined, donor-advised funds (DAFs) offer a way to bunch several years of charitable contributions into one tax year, maximizing your itemized deductions while still spreading your giving over time. You get an immediate tax deduction for the full contribution, but you can recommend grants to charities over many years. The funds grow tax-free in the meantime. The catch: Once you contribute to a DAF, the money is irrevocably committed to charity. You can't get it back for personal use. The impact: Contributing $50,000 to a DAF in a high-income year (versus giving $10,000 annually) can create immediate federal tax savings of $15,000-$18,500 while still allowing you to support the same charities over five years. 3. Taxable Brokerage Accounts with Tax-Loss Harvesting Once you've maximized tax-advantaged accounts, strategic taxable investing becomes your next move. The key is working with a financial advisor who implements systematic tax-loss harvesting throughout the year. Tax-loss harvesting involves selling investments at a loss to offset capital gains elsewhere. Done strategically, this can save thousands in taxes annually. The catch: Long-term capital gain rates (0%, 15%, or 20%) are lower than ordinary income tax rates, but you're still paying taxes on gains. It's less tax-efficient than retirement accounts, but far better than ignoring tax optimization. The impact: For high earners in the 35-37% ordinary income brackets, the difference between long-term capital gains (20%) and ordinary rates is significant. Effective tax-loss harvesting on $50,000 in annual gains over 20 years could save $150,000+ in taxes. 4. Health Savings Account (HSA) Triple Tax Advantage HSAs offer a unique triple tax benefit: tax-deductible contributions, tax-free growth, and tax-free withdrawals for qualified medical expenses. With 2026 contribution limits of $4,400 for individuals and $8,750 for families, this adds another powerful layer to your strategy. You can invest HSA funds just like an IRA and let them grow for decades. After age 65, you can withdraw the funds for any purpose, medical or otherwise. The catch: You must have a high-deductible health plan to qualify for an HSA. After age 65, non-medical withdrawals are taxed as ordinary income (like traditional IRA distributions), but you still benefit from the upfront deduction and decades of tax-free growth. The impact: Contributing the family maximum ($8,750) annually for 20 years at a 7% average annual return creates approximately $355,000-$360,000 in tax-advantaged savings. 5. Backdoor Roth IRA Contributions Not to be confused with mega backdoor Roth contributions! Even if your income exceeds the Roth IRA contribution limits, you can still fund a Roth through the backdoor method: make a non-deductible contribution to a traditional IRA, then immediately convert it to a Roth IRA. The catch: If you have existing traditional IRA balances, the pro-rata rule complicates things. You may want to consider rolling those funds into your 401(k) first if your plan allows. The impact: Contributing $7,000 annually through the backdoor Roth for 20 years at 7% average annual return creates approximately $285,000-$290,000 in tax-free retirement savings. What Compounding These Strategies Looks Like Over 20 Years Let’s look at approximate outcomes based on a 7% average annual return. 401(k) Only: Annual contribution: $24,500 Total after 20 years: ~$1M 401(k) + Mega Backdoor Roth: Annual contribution: $72,000 Total after 20 years: ~$3M Note: Mega backdoor Roth space varies based on your employer's match. These calculations assume you're maximizing the total annual limit. Comprehensive Approach (under age 50): Mega Backdoor Roth: ~$3.0M HSA: ~$350K-$360K Backdoor Roth IRA: ~$285K-$290K Strategic taxable investing with tax-loss harvesting Total retirement savings: ~$3.6M+, plus taxable investments Comprehensive Approach (ages 50-59): With higher contribution limits and catch-up contributions, total retirement savings can reach ~$4M+ over 20 years. Comprehensive Approach (ages 60–63 with enhanced catch-up contributions) Higher contribution limits during peak earning years allow for meaningful acceleration of retirement savings. The exact impact depends on timing, contribution duration, and existing balances. The Bottom Line The difference between stopping at your basic 401(k) and implementing a comprehensive strategy can approach $3 million or more in additional retirement wealth over time. Why Strategic Coordination Matters These aren't either/or decisions. The most effective approach coordinates multiple strategies while ensuring everything works together. At Five Pine Wealth Management , we help high-earning clients build comprehensive plans that go beyond the 401(k). We coordinate your employer benefits, tax strategies, and investment accounts to create a cohesive approach that maximizes your wealth-building potential. This requires working across several areas: Analyzing your employer's 401(k) plan for mega backdoor Roth opportunities Implementing systematic tax-loss harvesting in taxable accounts Coordinating Roth conversions and backdoor contributions Optimizing your HSA as a long-term retirement vehicle Ensuring charitable giving strategies align with your tax situation Maximizing catch-up contributions when you reach milestone ages As fiduciary advisors, we're legally obligated to act in your best interest. That means we're focused on strategies that serve your goals, not products that generate commissions. Ready to see what's possible beyond your 401(k)? Email us at info@fivepinewealth.com or call 877.333.1015 to schedule a conversation about your specific situation. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) Q: Does my employer's 401(k) plan automatically allow mega backdoor Roth contributions? A: No. You need a plan that permits after-tax contributions and in-service conversions to Roth. Check with your HR department. Q: How do I prioritize which investment strategies to use? A: Generally, maximize employer match first (it's free money), then fully fund your 401(k), explore Mega Backdoor Roth if available, max out your HSA, consider backdoor Roth IRA contributions, and then move to taxable accounts with tax-loss harvesting. We can help determine the right sequence for your circumstances.
Key Takeaways Your guaranteed income sources (pensions, Social Security) matter more than your age when deciding allocation. Retiring at 65 doesn't mean your timeline ends. You likely have 20-30 years of investing ahead. Think in time buckets: near-term stability, mid-term balance, long-term growth. You're 55 years old with over a million dollars saved for retirement. Your 401(k) statements arrive each month, and you find yourself questioning whether your current allocation still makes sense. Should you be moving everything to bonds? Keeping it all in stocks? Something in between? There's no single "correct" asset allocation for everyone in this position. What works for you depends on factors unique to your situation: your retirement income sources, spending needs, and risk tolerance. Let's look at what matters most as you approach this major life transition. Why Asset Allocation Changes as Retirement Approaches When you’re 30 or 40, your investment timeline stretches decades into the future. When you’re 55 and looking to retire at 65, that equation changes because you’re no longer just building wealth: you’re preparing to start spending it. You need enough growth to keep pace with inflation and fund decades of retirement, but you also need stability to avoid the need to sell investments during market downturns. At this point, asset allocation 10 years before retirement is more nuanced than a simple “more conservative” approach. Understanding Your Actual Time Horizon Hitting retirement age doesn't make your investment timeline shrink to zero. If you retire at 65 and live to 90, that's a 25-year investment horizon. Think about your money in buckets based on when you'll need it: Time Horizon Investment Approach Example Needs Short-Term (Years 1-5 of Retirement) Stable & accessible funds Monthly living expenses, healthcare costs, and early travel plans Medium-Term (Years 6-15) Moderate risk; balanced growth Home repairs, care and income replacement, and helping grandchildren with college Long-Term (Years 16+) Growth-oriented with a Long-term care expenses, decades-long timeline legacy planning, and extended longevity needs This bucket approach helps you think beyond simple stock-versus-bond percentages. Asset Allocation 10 Years Before Retirement: Starting Points While there's no one-size-fits-all answer, here are some reasonable starting frameworks: Conservative Approach (60% stocks / 40% bonds) : Makes sense if you have minimal guaranteed income or plan to begin drawing heavily from your portfolio upon retirement. Moderate Approach (70% stocks / 30% bonds) : Works well for those with some guaranteed income sources, moderate risk tolerance, and a flexible withdrawal strategy. Growth-Oriented Approach (80% stocks / 20% bonds) : Can be appropriate if you have substantial guaranteed income covering basic expenses and the flexibility to reduce spending temporarily as needed. Remember, these are starting points for discussion, not recommendations. 3 Steps to Evaluate Your Current Allocation Ready to see if your current allocation still makes sense? Here's how to start: Step 1: Calculate your current stock/bond split. Pull your recent statements and add up everything in stocks (including mutual funds and ETFs) versus bonds. Divide each by your total portfolio to get percentages. Step 2: List your guaranteed retirement income. Write down income sources that aren't portfolio-dependent: Social Security (estimate at ssa.gov), pensions, annuities, rental income, or planned part-time work. Total the monthly amount. Step 3: Calculate your coverage gap. Estimate monthly retirement expenses, then subtract your guaranteed income. If guaranteed income covers 70-80%+ of expenses, you can be more growth-oriented. Under 50% coverage means you'll need a more balanced approach. When to Adjust Your Allocation Here are specific triggers that signal it's time to review and potentially adjust: Your allocation has drifted more than 5% from target. If you started at 70/30 stocks to bonds and market movements have pushed you to 77/23, it's time to rebalance back to your target. Your retirement timeline changes significantly. Planning to retire at 60 instead of 65? That's a trigger. Every two years of timeline shift warrants a fresh look at your allocation. Major health changes occur. A serious diagnosis that changes your life expectancy or healthcare costs should prompt an allocation review. You gain or lose a guaranteed income source. Inheriting a pension through remarriage, losing expected Social Security benefits through divorce, or discovering your pension is underfunded. Market volatility affects your sleep. If you're checking your portfolio daily and feeling genuine anxiety about normal market movements, your allocation might be too aggressive for your comfort, and that's a valid reason to adjust. Beyond Stocks and Bonds Modern retirement planning involves more than just deciding your stock-to-bond ratio. Consider international diversification (20-30% of your stock allocation), real estate exposure through REITs, cash reserves covering 1-2 years of spending, and income-producing investments such as dividend-paying stocks. The Biggest Mistake: Becoming Too Conservative Too Soon Moving everything to bonds at 55 might feel safer, but it creates two significant problems. First, you're almost guaranteeing that inflation will outpace your returns over a 30-year retirement. Second, you're missing a decade of potential growth during your peak earning and saving years. The difference between 60% and 80% stock allocation over 10 years can mean hundreds of thousands of dollars in portfolio value. Being too conservative can be just as risky as being too aggressive, just in different ways. Questions to Ask Yourself As you think about your asset allocation for the next 10 years: What percentage of my retirement spending will be covered by Social Security, pensions, or other guaranteed income? How flexible is my retirement budget? Could I reduce spending by 10-20% during a market downturn? What's my emotional reaction to seeing my portfolio drop 20% or more? Do I plan to leave money to heirs, or is my goal to spend most of it during retirement? Your honest answers to these questions matter more than your age or any generic allocation rule. Work With Professionals Who Understand Your Complete Picture At Five Pine Wealth Management, we help clients work through these decisions by looking at their complete financial picture. We stress-test different allocation strategies against various market scenarios, coordinate withdrawal strategies with tax planning, and help clients understand the trade-offs between different approaches. If you're within 10 years of retirement and wondering whether your current allocation still makes sense, let's talk. Email us at info@fivepinewealth.com or call 877.333.1015 to schedule a conversation. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) Q: What is the rule of thumb for asset allocation by age? A: Traditional rules like "subtract your age from 100" are oversimplified. Your allocation should be based on your guaranteed income sources, spending flexibility, and risk tolerance; not just your age. Q: Should I move my 401(k) to bonds before retirement? A: Not entirely. You still need growth to outpace inflation. Gradually shift toward a balanced allocation (60-80% stocks, depending on your situation) and keep 1-2 years of expenses in stable investments. Q: What's the difference between stocks and bonds in a retirement portfolio? A: Stocks provide growth potential to keep pace with inflation but come with volatility. Bonds offer stability and income but typically don't grow as much.
